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Article: Rolex Submariner Guide: The Different Models Explained

best Rolex to buy

Rolex Submariner Guide: The Different Models Explained

Rolex Submariner Models: The Complete Gamzo & Co. Guide

Few watches are as immediately recognizable as the Rolex Submariner. Originally created as a professional diving watch, the Submariner has evolved into one of the most recognizable collections in the Rolex lineup, with configurations ranging from understated stainless steel to full 18k gold.

But not every Submariner is the same.

The modern collection includes No-Date and Date models, stainless steel, two-tone, yellow gold, and white gold configurations, along with black, green, and blue bezel options. Several have also earned popular collector nicknames, including the "Starbucks," "Bluesy," and "Cookie Monster."

From a buyer's perspective, these differences matter. A stainless steel Submariner 124060 offers a completely different appearance from a full yellow-gold 126618LB, even though both share the fundamental Submariner design.

At Gamzo & Co., we recommend looking beyond the nickname when comparing Submariners. The reference number, material, dial, bezel, date configuration, and overall style are what truly separate one model from another.

In this guide, we'll break down the different Rolex Submariner models available at Gamzo & Co., explain what makes each configuration unique, and help you determine which Submariner best fits your preferences.


Quick Answer

The modern Rolex Submariner collection includes stainless steel, two-tone yellow gold, full yellow gold, and white gold models. Buyers can choose between the clean No-Date Submariner 124060 and several Submariner Date references, including the black 126610LN, green-bezel 126610LV "Starbucks," blue 126613LB "Bluesy," and precious-metal models such as the 126618LB and 126619LB "Cookie Monster."

Explore all Rolex Submariner watches at Gamzo & Co.


What You'll Learn

By the end of this guide, you'll understand:

  • The difference between the Submariner and Submariner Date.
  • The major modern Rolex Submariner references.
  • The differences between stainless steel, two-tone, yellow gold, and white gold Submariners.
  • What "Starbucks," "Bluesy," and "Cookie Monster" mean.
  • How black, green, and blue bezel configurations compare.
  • Which Submariner may be better suited to different buyers.
  • What to consider before purchasing a Rolex Submariner.

What Are the Different Rolex Submariners?

One of the easiest ways to understand the modern Submariner family is to compare the watches by date function, material, dial color, and bezel color.

Rolex Submariner Reference Material Dial Bezel
Submariner No-Date 124060 Oystersteel Black Black
Submariner Date 126610LN Oystersteel Black Black
Submariner "Starbucks" 126610LV Oystersteel Black Green
Submariner "Bluesy" 126613LB Oystersteel & Yellow Gold Blue Blue
Two-Tone Submariner 126613LN Oystersteel & Yellow Gold Black Black
Full Gold "Bluesy" 126618LB Yellow Gold Blue Blue
Yellow Gold Submariner 126618LN Yellow Gold Black Black
Submariner "Cookie Monster" 126619LB White Gold Black Blue

Although these watches share the fundamental Submariner architecture, changing the material and color combination can dramatically change how each watch looks and feels on the wrist.


1. Rolex Submariner No-Date 124060

For buyers who want the Submariner in one of its cleanest forms, the Rolex Submariner reference 124060 is the natural starting point.

It features a 41mm Oystersteel case, black dial, black Cerachrom bezel, and Oyster bracelet.

Most importantly, there is no date window.

Without a date display or Cyclops magnification lens at 3 o'clock, the 124060 maintains a clean and highly symmetrical dial. That simplicity gives the watch a strong connection to the original purpose and visual identity of the Submariner.

Reference: 124060
Case size: 41mm
Material: Oystersteel
Dial: Black
Bezel: Black Cerachrom
Date: No
Bracelet: Oyster

For buyers who want a straightforward stainless steel Submariner without additional color or precious metal, the 124060 is one of the purest expressions of the modern collection.

View at Gamzo & Co.: Rolex Submariner No-Date 124060


2. Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN

The Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN takes the familiar black Submariner formula and adds one of Rolex's most recognizable features: the date window with Cyclops magnification.

Like the 124060, it features a 41mm Oystersteel case, black dial, black Cerachrom bezel, and Oyster bracelet.

The most noticeable difference is the date display at 3 o'clock.

Reference: 126610LN
Case size: 41mm
Material: Oystersteel
Dial: Black
Bezel: Black Cerachrom
Date: Yes
Bracelet: Oyster

This is a good example of how a relatively small functional difference can change the personality of a watch.

Buyers who value dial symmetry may prefer the 124060. Buyers who regularly use a date complication may find the 126610LN more practical for everyday wear.

View at Gamzo & Co.: Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN


3. Rolex Submariner "Starbucks" 126610LV

The Rolex Submariner 126610LV introduces one of the collection's most recognizable colors while maintaining stainless steel construction.

Its defining combination is a black dial paired with a green Cerachrom bezel.

Among collectors and dealers, this reference is commonly called the "Starbucks." The green bezel also connects it visually with previous green Submariner generations, including the earlier reference 16610LV commonly known as the "Kermit."

Reference: 126610LV
Case size: 41mm
Material: Oystersteel
Dial: Black
Bezel: Green Cerachrom
Date: Yes
Bracelet: Oyster

The green bezel gives the watch considerably more personality than the standard black 126610LN without moving into two-tone or precious-metal territory.

For someone who wants the versatility of a stainless steel Submariner but also wants a model that immediately stands apart from the traditional black configuration, the 126610LV is one of the strongest options.

View at Gamzo & Co.: Rolex Submariner "Starbucks" 126610LV


4. Rolex Submariner "Bluesy" 126613LB

The Rolex Submariner 126613LB, commonly known as the "Bluesy," takes the Submariner in a more luxurious direction.

It combines Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold with a blue dial and blue Cerachrom bezel.

Reference: 126613LB
Case size: 41mm
Material: Oystersteel & 18k yellow gold
Dial: Blue
Bezel: Blue Cerachrom
Date: Yes
Bracelet: Two-tone Oyster

This combination has become one of the most recognizable configurations in the Submariner family.

The Bluesy occupies an interesting position because it sits between the relatively understated character of stainless steel and the unmistakable presence of a full-gold Submariner.

The steel outer links maintain contrast and versatility, while the yellow-gold center links and blue dial and bezel give the watch considerably more visual presence.

View at Gamzo & Co.: Rolex Submariner "Bluesy" 126613LB


5. Rolex Submariner Two-Tone Black 126613LN

The Rolex Submariner 126613LN uses the same steel-and-yellow-gold concept as the Bluesy but takes the design in a more restrained direction.

Instead of blue, Rolex pairs its two-tone construction with a black dial and black Cerachrom bezel.

Reference: 126613LN
Case size: 41mm
Material: Oystersteel & 18k yellow gold
Dial: Black
Bezel: Black Cerachrom
Date: Yes
Bracelet: Two-tone Oyster

The result is a watch that retains the visual presence of yellow gold while remaining more conservative in color than the 126613LB.

For someone attracted to a two-tone Submariner but unsure about the bright blue dial and bezel of the Bluesy, the 126613LN provides an important alternative.

View at Gamzo & Co.: Rolex Submariner Two-Tone Black 126613LN


6. Rolex Submariner "Full Gold Bluesy" 126618LB

The Rolex Submariner 126618LB takes the famous blue-and-yellow-gold combination considerably further.

Instead of combining stainless steel and gold, the case and bracelet are constructed in 18k yellow gold, complemented by a blue dial and blue Cerachrom bezel.

Reference: 126618LB
Case size: 41mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Dial: Blue
Bezel: Blue Cerachrom
Date: Yes
Bracelet: Yellow-gold Oyster

The result is dramatically different from the stainless steel Submariners.

Although the underlying design remains that of a professional dive watch, the precious-metal construction gives the 126618LB an unmistakably luxurious presence.

This model is sometimes informally described as the "Full Gold Bluesy" to distinguish it from the steel-and-yellow-gold 126613LB.

For buyers who specifically want the combination of yellow gold and Rolex blue, this is one of the most distinctive Submariners in the collection.

View at Gamzo & Co.: Rolex Submariner "Full Gold Bluesy" 126618LB


7. Rolex Submariner Yellow Gold Black 126618LN

Not every full-gold Submariner needs a colorful dial and bezel.

The Rolex Submariner 126618LN combines an 18k yellow-gold case and Oyster bracelet with a black dial and black Cerachrom bezel.

Reference: 126618LN
Case size: 41mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Dial: Black
Bezel: Black Cerachrom
Date: Yes
Bracelet: Yellow-gold Oyster

Compared with the blue 126618LB, the black configuration is considerably more restrained in color—but certainly not in presence.

The black dial and bezel create strong contrast against the yellow-gold case and bracelet. The result is a configuration that is unmistakably precious metal while preserving the traditional black Submariner color scheme.

For buyers deciding between Rolex's two yellow-gold Submariners, the choice often comes down to personality: blue for a more expressive appearance and black for a more traditional look.

View at Gamzo & Co.: Rolelex Submariner Yellow Gold 126618LN


8. Rolex Submariner "Cookie Monster" 126619LB

The Rolex Submariner 126619LB, commonly nicknamed the "Cookie Monster," is perhaps the most understated precious-metal Submariner at first glance.

Its case and Oyster bracelet are constructed from 18k white gold, while the watch pairs a black dial with a blue Cerachrom bezel.

Reference: 126619LB
Case size: 41mm
Material: 18k white gold
Dial: Black
Bezel: Blue Cerachrom
Date: Yes
Bracelet: White-gold Oyster

Unlike yellow gold, white gold doesn't immediately advertise its precious-metal construction from across the room.

That is part of this reference's appeal.

Someone unfamiliar with the model could recognize it as a Submariner without immediately realizing that the case and bracelet are made from white gold. The blue bezel provides the most obvious visual distinction from the standard black stainless steel Submariner.

For collectors who appreciate precious metal but prefer something less visually obvious than yellow gold, the 126619LB occupies a particularly interesting position in the Submariner lineup.

View at Gamzo & Co.: Rolex Submariner "Cookie Monster" 126619LB


No-Date vs. Date Rolex Submariner

One of the first decisions a Submariner buyer should make is whether they want a date complication.

The 124060 No-Date provides the cleanest and most symmetrical dial in the current collection.

The Submariner Date references add a date window at 3 o'clock and Rolex's characteristic Cyclops magnification lens.

Neither configuration is inherently better.

The No-Date appeals to buyers who value simplicity and the traditional Submariner aesthetic. The Date is more practical for owners who regularly use a date complication.

This decision can immediately narrow down your choices because the current No-Date configuration is the 124060, while the other models discussed in this guide belong to the Submariner Date family.


Stainless Steel vs. Two-Tone vs. Gold Submariners

Material is one of the biggest differences between modern Rolex Submariner models.

Stainless Steel

The 124060, 126610LN, and 126610LV provide the most traditional modern Submariner experience.

They're versatile, sporty, and visually closest to the professional tool-watch identity that established the Submariner's reputation.

Two-Tone

The 126613LN and 126613LB combine Oystersteel with 18k yellow gold.

These references bridge the gap between the understated appearance of stainless steel and the stronger luxury presence of a full precious-metal Submariner.

Yellow Gold

The 126618LN and 126618LB move entirely into precious-metal construction.

The black LN configuration is comparatively traditional, while the blue LB configuration creates a more expressive appearance.

White Gold

The 126619LB Cookie Monster provides another interpretation of a precious-metal Submariner.

Its white-gold construction is considerably less obvious than yellow gold, making it particularly interesting for buyers who want the weight and precious-metal construction of a high-end Submariner without the unmistakable appearance of yellow gold.


What Do LN, LV, and LB Mean on Rolex Submariners?

Understanding Rolex reference suffixes makes comparing Submariners much easier.

LN — Lunette Noire

LN refers to a black bezel.

You'll see it on references such as the 126610LN, 126613LN, and 126618LN.

LV — Lunette Verte

LV refers to a green bezel.

The modern 126610LV Starbucks is the best example.

LB — Lunette Bleue

LB refers to a blue bezel.

You'll find it on models such as the 126613LB Bluesy, 126618LB, and 126619LB Cookie Monster.

Once you understand these suffixes, seemingly complicated Rolex reference numbers become considerably easier to recognize.


Rolex Submariner Comparison

Reference Popular Name Material Dial Bezel Best For
124060 No-Date Oystersteel Black Black Simplicity
126610LN Submariner Date Oystersteel Black Black Everyday versatility
126610LV Starbucks Oystersteel Black Green Sporty color
126613LB Bluesy Steel & Yellow Gold Blue Blue Classic two-tone
126613LN Two-Tone Black Steel & Yellow Gold Black Black Understated two-tone
126618LB Full Gold Bluesy Yellow Gold Blue Blue Maximum presence
126618LN Full Gold Black Yellow Gold Black Black Classic precious metal
126619LB Cookie Monster White Gold Black Blue Understated precious metal

Which Rolex Submariner Should You Buy?

There isn't one Submariner that is objectively better than every other version.

The better question is which configuration fits your personal style and how you intend to wear the watch.

For the cleanest Submariner:
Consider the 124060 No-Date.

For the classic everyday Submariner:
Consider the 126610LN.

For stainless steel with more personality:
The green-bezel 126610LV Starbucks stands apart without introducing precious metal.

For the iconic two-tone look:
The blue 126613LB Bluesy is one of the collection's most recognizable configurations.

For a more understated two-tone Submariner:
Consider the black 126613LN.

For maximum yellow-gold presence:
Compare the blue 126618LB with the black 126618LN.

For understated precious metal:
The white-gold 126619LB Cookie Monster provides something entirely different.


What Should You Check Before Buying a Rolex Submariner?

Choosing the reference is only part of the buying process.

When evaluating a Submariner, particularly on the secondary market, consider:

  • Reference number
  • Production year
  • Overall condition
  • Originality
  • Dial and bezel configuration
  • Bracelet condition
  • Service history
  • Box and papers
  • Seller reputation
  • Current market pricing

For pre-owned and discontinued references, condition and originality can have a significant effect on desirability and market value.

Two watches carrying the same reference number are not automatically equal simply because they look similar in photographs.


The Gamzo & Co. Perspective

The Submariner is a perfect example of why buyers should shop by reference number rather than model name alone.

Saying you want a "Rolex Submariner" still leaves several important decisions unanswered.

Do you want a date or No-Date?

Do you prefer a black, green, or blue bezel?

Do you want stainless steel, two-tone, yellow gold, or white gold?

Would you rather have the understated character of the 124060 or the unmistakable presence of the full-gold 126618LB?

Understanding these differences makes it much easier to identify the Submariner that actually fits your collection, lifestyle, and personal taste.

Explore the Rolex Submariner Collection at Gamzo & Co.


Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between the Rolex Submariner and Submariner Date?

The primary difference is the date complication. The Submariner 124060 has no date window, giving it a symmetrical dial, while Submariner Date models include a date display with Rolex's Cyclops magnification lens at 3 o'clock.

What is the Rolex Starbucks?

The Rolex Submariner 126610LV, commonly called the "Starbucks," combines an Oystersteel case and bracelet with a black dial and green Cerachrom bezel.

View the Rolex Starbucks 126610LV at Gamzo & Co.

What is the Rolex Bluesy?

The Rolex Submariner 126613LB, commonly known as the "Bluesy," combines Oystersteel and yellow gold with a blue dial and blue Cerachrom bezel.

View the Rolex Bluesy 126613LB at Gamzo & Co.

What is the Rolex Cookie Monster?

The Rolex Submariner 126619LB, commonly called the "Cookie Monster," is an 18k white-gold Submariner featuring a black dial and blue Cerachrom bezel.

View the Rolex Cookie Monster 126619LB at Gamzo & Co.

Which Rolex Submariner is best for everyday wear?

For buyers looking for an everyday Submariner, the stainless steel 124060, 126610LN, and 126610LV are natural models to compare. Your decision largely comes down to whether you want a date complication and whether you prefer a black or green bezel.

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